Anti-aging vs. pro-aging active ingredients

An expected boom in market size

According to the GCI magazine, the anti-aging market is set to explode this decade as all boomers (born 1946-1964) will have entered their sixties within the next few years.1

By 2030, it is estimated that 1 in 6 people in the world will be aged 60+ years.2

In fact, P&S Intelligence reported recently that the global market size for anti-aging is expected to skyrocket from $194.4 billion in 2020 to $422.8 billion by 2030.1

Key factors propelling this growth aren’t just limited to the aging population—it’s also driven by a new post-pandemic mindset, a mix between a new focus on sustainably sourced ingredients and consumers breaking down taboos on their health and wellbeing. 
 

bien-vieillir femme

What are anti-ageing active ingredients?

The first signs of skin aging appear at the age of 25, which is why it is important to use the right products to take care of your skin. Skin aging is a natural process that cannot be stopped, but it can be slowed down !

 

Thus, anti-aging active ingredients aim to provide benefits to combat skin aging: they will boost the production of molecules that the skin loses or produces in smaller quantities over time. They target the signs of skin aging, including fine lines, loss of elasticity, sagging skin, loss of radiance, etc. These ingredients, formulated in cosmetic products, bring effectiveness to your beauty routine.

Skin Ageing Process

What are the key skin concerns of ageing?

There are 2 main types of causes for skin aging: internal causes and external causes. Internal causes are inevitable, it is part of our biological make-up.
External factors, aka. the exposome, are linked to our lifestyle (pollution, stress, sleep, sun, nutrition, etc.). These two phenomena alter the homeostasis of our skin and increase oxidative stress.


Indeed, oxidative stress leads to the release of free radicals which damage skin cells and degrade key matrix markers such as collagen, hyaluronic acid or elastin.
 

Types of well-ageing ingredients explained

 

 

Plumpers & collagen boosters

With age, the natural synthesis of macromolecules such as collagen or hyaluronic acid decreases. Damaged molecules are no longer replaced by new, more effective ones, which leads to sagging of the skin. Certain active ingredients, such as peptides or others, stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, essential for maintaining elasticity & firmness of the skin.

To help replenish your natural content of effective macromolecules, look for plumping ingredients that will either boost collagen or boost your natural hyaluronic acid production. 

Skin tone unifier

Overtime, the skin’s exposition to sunlight & ultraviolet rays adds up and our melanin production accelerates. Overstimulated, melanin gives way to age spots
In order to prevent the early appearance of age spots, skin-evening active ingredients can regulate melanin production, brighten the skin and reduce uneven skin tone caused by sun damage and aging.

 

Antioxidants 

When the skin's defense systems become less effective and free radicals accumulate, and free radicals accumulate, cellular functions are impaired. Free radicals are unstable molecules that damage our skin; the synthesis of proteins and macromolecules decreases, the epidermis becomes thinner and dermal and epidermal functions are disrupted, which accelerates the aging process.

Active ingredients with strong antioxidant properties can help weakened skins fight off the daily aggressions our skin faces.

Photo-aging prevention

It is essential to protect the skin from the sun as UVA rays are the main culprits of photo-aging, which contributes to oxidative stress via the release of free radicals

In addition to using sunscreen, it is interesting to formulate with  sun protectant active ingredients which will protect the skin against the sun's harmful effects.

Hydrators

Skin can appear flakier or drier as we age, this is due to an impairment of the barrier function as the epidermis thins overtime.

By strengthening the skin barrier, we can prevent moisture loss and protect the skin from external aggressions. Active ingredients can also be used to rehydrate our skin, redistribute its water content or even boost essential lipids to maintain hydration.

Cellular regeneration

The active ingredients promoting skin regeneration can eliminate senescent skin cells, boost markers linked to cell renewal and thus reveal a softer and smoother skin. They can also reduce the appearance of class 1 wrinkles, as well as irregularity in skin texture.

©Scott Trindle, Allure 2017

A change in perspective: from anti-aging to well-ageing

Breaking the stigma around the influence of age on men and women’s lives can help them better understand their body and its needs.

By seeking preventative measures rather than corrective measures, consumers are taking ownership of what constitutes their beauty, regardless of their age. They actively look for products that fit with their new mindset and aspirations. This is why we’ve been seeing a shift from “anti-ageing” products towards “pro-ageing” and “well-ageing” products. 

Well-ageing active ingredients are designed to target specific skin concerns linked to mature skin. Today, they also hold a more holistic approach, instead of only targeting wrinkles , they also target other issues such as dry skin, uneven skin tone, hyper-pigmentation, menopause, mental well-being and more...

Today, well-ageing cosmetic products, means going above and beyond treating ageing signs.

It means also focusing on other factors that are involved in the ageing process like menopause. Menopause, a natural process in life, is an important milestone in women’s health, involving many changes. Throughout menopause, hormonal variations cause the vaginal microbiome to be in a state of dysbiosis, generating symptoms like unusual discharge, itching or vulvar pain and infections. 

Through active ingredients like Calybiota® Bio; a hydrating, soothing and microbiota rebalancing active ingredient, women can find solutions through cosmetic products to feel more at ease during this often-uncomfortable period of their life.
 

Discover Calybiota® Bio